March 25, 2011 - Hitting the Ground Running in Italy

Back blogged yes. This is the post from March 24, 2011

Enjoying our view of the snow capped Alps!

The gate to Verona

Our free red bull - which was perfectly timed to combat jetlag!

Verona :)

Our guys in front of the Arena

Free water!!!

Beautiful square within Verona

Juliet's Balcony

Market

Brooke and Colleen at the Victor Emmanuel II

Meow? Gotta love European advertisements

A medieval castle we passed on our drive to Venice

More beautiful scenery along the way

We may be a little travel weary at this point - but I genuinely believe everyone is off to a great start! The students are adjusting to currency conversions, very different showers, different room keys-light systems, having to step on a pedal to get water at the sink in some public restrooms...but ultimately they are adjusting beautifully and are all smiles.

After a flight that most admitted was not as bad as they feared - that ended with a beautiful thirty minutes of flying over the snow-capped alps, everyone stood in line awaiting their Italy passport stamp - and no one was beaming as much as our kids as they watched the officers stamp us into the EU. All of our bags made it! And we were soon clearing customs and meeting up with our tour director, Carmen.

During the 2.5 hour bus ride to Verona, we drove past the "pre-alps" (the baby, foothills alps), with beautiful church steeples and campanilles juxtaposed against the mountainside. We drove past many vineyards, gigantic wheels of parmesan and many quaint villages along the way.

We enjoyed lunch in Verona, visited the balcony that the setting for Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet and enjoyed some free time to wander at our own pace.

And then we were onto Venice - which is actually shaped like a fish and comprised of 117 islands, 150+ bridges, and 400+ canals. We have crashed for a bit, enjoyed dinner, and all will soon be checked in for the night.

Tomorrow is a BIG day of water taxis, murano glass, gondola rides, Doges Palace and more!!!

Viva la Nation! I'm in Paris!

Well the past twenty-four hours are a bit of a blur… This time yesterday I was boarding my flight to Paris.  Twenty-four hours later I have been swept up by EF Tours, spent four hours lunching, doing my own personal highlights tour, and munching on a scrumptious pastry and espresso while I recovered.  I enjoyed the painting sections of the Louvre the most and am beginning to think that the Musee de Orsay may be at the top of my list for potential things to do on Sunday afternoon.

After the Louvre, we did a walking tour of the Latin Quarter and visited several beautifully old, architecturally gothic sites that were rich with medieval history.  From there we reached Notre Dame just as it grew dark and began to rain (so there are few pictures from the outside) – which was stunning, picturesquely gothic in the interior and actually had a service going on – so as we strolled the ambulatory we listed to the lilting chants of a soprano and enjoyed the smell of incense wafting through the air.  

Then we had the epic trek to dinner…which was extremely difficult because the rush hour metro was so full there wasn’t any space to board…people were literally smushed against the windows.  Two or three people at a time we eventually rode it the number of stops necessary, regrouped, changed lines, and eventually, exhausted, very hungry, and…exhausted, made it to dinner.

Dinner was pretty enjoyable – we get to eat out on our own tomorrow night, so I am looking f orward to that opportunity.  Tomorrow is…..the major sights of Paris and THE VERSAILLES!!!  I am super super psyched!  

The 2010 Election in Egypt




Egyptian Military lining the highway, overlooking a neighborhood prone to protests concerning the election



Election Campaign Poster

Election Campaign Posters line the streets

This afternoon I stumbled across some interesting information about the parliamentary elections currently going on in Egypt that I would like to share. While we were in Egypt, we were in numerous situations in which we noted armed militia lining the freeway for what we was told as riot/crowd-control in case another uprising occured. On Friday, we also crossed through a square (although, when we saw the crowd we quickly walked along the outskirts of the square) that was full of men who looked like they were in the midst of organizing a large crowd, and then we had to get through several security checkpoints to walk down a street that seemed like it would usually be traversable. While in Luxor, our guide also told us that this was the first election in which women were allowed to run for office. Our Giza guide mentioned that there were fourteen different political parties and sometimes groups cared very intensely if they didn't win the seats they wanted. ...All of these experiences, knowledge nuggets, etc, are all coming together as I saw this article today and did a little digging:

1. Here's an interesting video clip from CNN, evidently many are realizing the elections are quite unfair:

2.  This is one of the headlining topics on Human Rights Watch, another organization that believes the Egyptian elections are unjust. 
3.  Women aren't just allowed to run for office (evidently they had been before), what is significant, according to this article is that over the next five years, through elections, women are supposed to hold a minimum of 12% of Parliament.  The article also notes that this is not going well. 
4.  There have in fact been riots, as are detailed by this article. 
5.  There are groups that were discriminated prior to the election, as explained in this article.
6.  People have been paid to vote, people have voted multiple, multiple times, people have been blocked from entering election stations, and election posts have closed prohibitively early...Check out the videos on this blog...

Very interesting things to think about... this certainly explains why many of the guides were very vague and cryptic when answering questions about the elections.



Pyramids and Camels and Mosques!

Giza Highlights

(click on the image above to view the album)

Wednesday, November 23^rd – Pyramids and Camels and Mosques!

Today was magic!  From the first glimpses of the pyramids poking out over the city buildings to the breathtaking realization of how huge they actually are as you stand in their shadows to the exhilarating duck walk we did down into the depths of the third pyramid to indulgently fun camel rides and stepping into gorgeous mosques – it was one of those days that makes the trip.  

We woke up, excited to head to Giza, grabbed breakfast and met with our guide and driver.  The seven clambered into the van and braced ourselves for another day of Cairo traffic and our forty-five minute drive to Giza.  As we drove we noticed one particularly alarming thing – when we reached an especially rough-looking area of town that was full of unfinished brick apartment style buildings (keep in mind, a tremendous amount of Cairo would qualify as “rough,” this area was moderately worse than some of the areas…we actually such much, much worse.  Anyway, as we drove through this area, we noticed men in black uniforms standing at attention on the freeway looking down into this section of town.  And it wasn’t just a few men in uniforms, it was dozens and dozens of men with transport trucks, automatic rifles, tear gas guns, shields, helmets…and in some places they were standing shoulder to shoulder.  We quickly asked our guide what was going on and he said that Egypt was in the midst of their parliamentary elections and that some groups rioted and protested when things didn’t go the way they wanted.  He said the election had been going on for ten days now.  We asked, why this area and he explained that this is the area in which protests have occurred and that during this election there have been two mosques and several churches damaged or destroyed in the area.  Our Luxor guide also told us (the next day) that this was the first parliamentary election in which women were allowed to run for office and I saw political posters for both women wearing traditional Muslim dress and women that looked like modern politicians.  All throughout the cities there were pictures of different politicians (mainly male) draped from buildings.  We were told that there are 14 different political parties and that the current leading party is the National Party, which is also the oldest party in Egypt.  The military is volunteer-based. 

On the way to Giza, the level of poverty and quality of living plummeted.  And then, as we peered at the city apartment buildings, we caught a glimpse of the pyramids jutting out over the rooftops!  By the time we pulled up to the pyramids, we could scarcely believe how immense they were!  We bought tickets to enter the third pyramid, were given the main admission tickets by our guide, and were ready to go!  We had seen the pyramids from the airplane and they had almost looked small.  As we walked to the base of the first one, the Great Pyramid, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, small was anything but the right description.  We stood in the shade of an awe-inspiring, three million stone pyramid!  We were even able to climb up the first few steps and take pictures ON the pyramid!  So cool!  During this, I was approached by several sweet Muslim girls (teenagers) who asked if they could have their picture taken with me – when I agreed they all excitedly crowded around and took picture after picture on their little cameras, showing me the results and saying “ah, fantastique!”  After this, we headed to the third pyramid and were able to take great pictures of the second and most intact one. 

And then!  We got to head down into the third pyramid!!!  Excited we had to squat and walk at a downward slant for quite a distance before were could comfortably stand again.  At the bottom, we reached a room that led to the top of the sarcophagus and actually climbed on the granite that had covered the tomb.  Further down we saw the room where his goodies for the afterlife would be and then got to go into a smaller side room that provided spaces for the pharaoh and his family to be interned – they each had little cubbies.  From there, we climbed back up and out and headed over for a more panoramic view of the pyramids and also decided we were going to go for it – we were going to ride camels!  Oh, and a fun fact?  We learned there were over 95 pyramids built by the Egyptians.  

I was worried the camel ride was going to be cheesy…but I didn’t want to have come this far and not do it…so Emily, Daniel, Michael, and I all decided to go for it – it really was fun!  I thought I would feel silly, but we headed down a sand dune into the Sahara and got a great view of the pyramids as well as excellent photos with the pyramids in our background.  It was really cool!  We didn’t see a camel spit, but we certainly got to see their crazy gullets and got to hear the ridiculous slobbery-grumbly noises they make – they were very funny.

After all of this, we got to visit the Sphinx as well!  From there our guide tried to add in a visit to a “market” which meant perfume store that took us back and tried to sell us things – thankfully Daniel stopped them mid-demonstration (it could have gone on for a very long time) and we left, worried we wouldn’t have enough time to enjoy the Citadel.

We decided to forgo lunch and to try to visit the Citadel and Mosques before eating – daring, yes, but everything closed at four.  This is the Citadel that Saladin built to protect Cairo in case the Christian Crusaders attacked Cairo as well.  It’s a really cool fortress at a pinnacle point within the city – and at the top, there is a beautiful Mosque.  So, we got to don our scarves, take off our shoes, and walk through a beautiful Mosque – the interior was very different from the ones I had visited in Bosnia.  Several of us sat down and spent a while studying the intricate artwork of the domes.  I taught Michael and Stephanie about arabesque and calligraphy.  After that, we enjoyed the city views from the edges of the Citadel and finally caved and bought lunch (around 3:30).  The remainder of our day was spent relaxing, going over pictures, working out our Luxor day trip details, and trying to grab a few hours of sleep before we left at 3:30 am for Luxor.  It really was a fantastic day – the best group day of the trip!

Navigating Cairo

Tuesday, November 23rd  – Our first moments in Egypt!

Our first evening in Cairo was quite an adventure.  Our bus from the airport fit all seven of us (and luggage) and quickly allowed us a crash course in Cairo driving – it’s insane.  There are very few lane indications, but a good rule of thumb is that if it is a traditionally three lane road it’s a five lane road in which people do not use turn signals, but instead communicate to “make way, I’m coming through whether you like it or not” by honking.  People run in between the cars to cross the street at any point they like, motorcycles zigzag amongst the cars like they’re a maze, and bicyclists do the same.  Even at night not everyone uses their lights, people stop for no reason with no warning, u-turns are possible at any point and any time, and if you hit someone the driver usually honks and waves at the person.  It’s truly crazy. 

After our daring airport transfer, we cleared security at our hotel (which we later found out has 24 hour security with metal detectors, bag searches,…the hotel across the street even had a bomb detecting dog), checked into the hotel, and settled into our rooms.  We wanted to find a restaurant for dinner – we were all hungry and excited to try new cuisine and a restaurant called “Receid”…or at least that’s what it sounded like when they said it in Arabic.  We asked about getting a taxi, but Gary and I had read that they overcharge when you try to get a taxi straight from a hotel.  So the hotel concierge recommended that we walk around the corner and across the bridge – much easier said than done.  Cairo is a bustling city of over 32 million people and nearly all of them drive.  And while it seemed immense, we learned that its square kilometers are fairly small for a city that holds that tremendous population.  We soon found ourselves weaving through the crowds and attempting the unthinkable – crossing the street.  In our hands we had the name of the restaurant recommendation written in Arabic.  Ultimately it took multiple cab attempts, seeking the help of three different police officers, a shop keeper, and a man on the street to help us get two taxis and locate the restaurant.  It was worth it though and was the best meal we had the entire time – tahini, falafel, creamy walnut chicken, fava bean dip, and more.  After that we hit up a pizza place for Michael and Stephanie, found a convenience store and bought several liters of bottled water, and hailed two taxis home using the trick I had learned in Korea – when in a foreign country that uses symbols other than your traditional Roman alphabet, grab a hotel card to show your taxi driver.  (I suppose that goes for any country or hotel so you can return, but when I don’t speak or write Arabic, it’s helpful to have a card that says it all for me).  I also gave cards to multiple people and to Michael and Stephanie so that should they ever get separated they could explain where they needed to go. 

Our taxi back was awesome – Daniel, Emily and I had a modern guy who was closer to our age and drove like he was in vice city – we had many close calls in which we were “inches from people” as Emily has since exclaimed.  When we asked him if he thought it was a video game he laughed very hard and we were able to banter back and forth with him a bit.  We survived our ride and spent the rest of the evening lining up our Giza tour and gear up for our trip to the pyramids!!!

Climbing the Great Pyramid at Giza!!!

Group photo at Pyramid #2!

:)

Look Mom, No hands! :)

Smooch while riding the camels!

LOVED the Spinx!

Group photo at the Sphinx!

Mini-lesson on Arabic art, while we enjoy the beauty of the Citadel Mosque

The Mosque within the Citadel

Had a fantastic day!!!  From visiting the pyramids, to clambering into a pyramid, to riding camels through the Sahara, to being sequestered by young girls wanting to take a picture with American women, to strolling Saladin's Citadel and exploring the mosque -- it was an awesome day!!!  We depart for Luxor at THREE THIRTY tomorrow morning, so more updates will have to wait, but if you re-visit the Mycenaean entry, the album is posted and captioned! :)

Onto Egypt!

“Whether you guys believe it or not, today was quite an adventure…”

…this is very true. We are safely in Egypt, have made it to our hotel, and have successfully ventured out to find delicious food and gallons of bottled water. We have set up a Giza tour for the morning! And we managed to get a concierge to help us figure out how on earth to reach the person who left us many messages about misreading which day for our tour to Luxor…bottom line, the tour for Luxor is still on!

It has been a tiring day. We are having a good time with the Hals, but today Daniel and I did look at each other and say on a few occasions and said "what did we get ourselves into?" If it were the two of us today would have been much easier and a lot of fun. As the seven of us, with varying levels of wariness about where we are, it is downright complicated. But we are figuring it out and…we are headed to see the pyramids in the morning!!! We actually saw them as we flew into Cairo and descended into the smog (literally), but seeing them in person in the morning will hopefully be awesome! :-)